The Ultimate Guide to Curly Hair Care in West Hampstead

The Engine Room at Baykar London
Feb 9
5 min read

Updated: Apr 8

As anyone with curly hair knows, finding a good hairdresser is no mean feat. I can fully appreciate how soul-destroying it can be to walk out of yet another salon with a really bad haircut.

If you have curls, coils, or waves, you know that your hair doesn't play by the same rules as straight hair. You’ve likely experienced the "triangle hair" cut, the accidental shelf, or the stylist who tries to comb your curls out while dry (the horror!).

Interestingly, it was my curls that led me to Baykar and the subsequent opening of Baykar London back in 2014. Long story short, when I found him, I was never letting him go - the hair/Baykar relationship had begun!

I suspect if I said that "bad hair days" were frequent, that would resonate with many of you. Can you honestly say that you haven't had to battle the frizz on many an occasion?

So, let’s look at the facts of frizz (sorry if this sends you off to sleep...).

Why Do Curls Frizz?

Curly hair frizzes after washing because of how hair interacts with water, cuticles, and drying. There is actual science here – it is not just a random thing!

Curly Hair Structure

Curly hair has bends and twists, meaning:

Natural oils don’t travel down the hair shaft easily, making it moisture-hungry.
After washing, curls are extra sensitive to anything that disrupts moisture balance.
Water lifts the cuticle, and it doesn’t always lay back down.

What Happens When Curly Hair Gets Wet?

The cuticle opens so water can get in.
If the cuticle doesn’t reseal smoothly, it can stay raised, leading to disaster.

Common Reasons the Cuticle Stays Lifted:

Hot water
Harsh shampoos
Skipping conditioner
Rough towel drying

Balanced Moisture and Structure

Curls need balanced moisture and structure (protein).

Moisture Imbalance = frizz (too little or too much).
Not enough moisture leads to:

- Hair drying out as the water evaporates.

- Curls expanding, looking for moisture in the air, which leads to frizz.

Conversely, too much moisture (over-hydration) leads to:

Hair swelling too much.
Curl pattern losing structure.

All of which can lead to a fluffy, undefined frizz!

Friction When Wet

Frizz happens when:

Hair is rubbed too harshly with a towel.
Hair is brushed while dry or half-dry.
Hands consistently touch the hair while drying.

Each of these things breaks the natural curl pattern, which causes frizz.

Products Matter

Products are not sealing the cuticle. If you only use creams or leave-ins (moisture) but no hold product, then:

Water escapes unevenly.
Curls lose definition.
Frizz appears as hair dries.

This is why gel or foam = frizz control, not stiffness.

Humidity's Impact

Humidity pulls moisture back into the hair. After washing:

Hair is clean and porous.
Humidity enters raised cuticles.
Hair expands, creating a halo of frizz.

This is especially common if:

Hair is damaged.
Hair isn’t sealed with a hold product.

Brushing Curls

Brushing curls breaks the natural curl pattern.

A brush pulls curl groups apart, separating them into individual strands, resulting in curls losing their spiral shape and becoming frizzy.
Brushing moves strands against each other and raises the cuticle, leading to rough texture and frizz.

Drying Method Matters

Frizz increases when:

Hair air-dries without hold.
Hair is blow-dried without a diffuser.
Hair is flipped around while drying.

Best practice:

Apply products on soaking wet hair.
Scrunch to form curl clumps.
Diffuse on low heat/low airflow or air-dry without touching.

Now that we have addressed all things factual about curly hair, why it frizzes, and how to address it, let’s tackle the next question: Why Is It So Hard to Get a Good Haircut?

Unfortunately, many stylists and salons simply don't understand the structure of curly hair or how it (mis)behaves.

5 Common Mistakes Hair Salons Make

Cutting Curly Hair as if it Were Straight
Nine times out of ten, a stylist will cut curly hair as if it were straight. BIG MISTAKE! Curls shrink when they are dry, so using the same technique as used to achieve a nice even line on straight hair just leads to uneven lengths and frighteningly surprising volume.
Over-Washing or Using the Wrong Products at the Backwash
Many salons wash hair aggressively, using the first shampoo that comes to hand. This strips the natural oils that curly hair needs, leading to dryness and frizz.
Towel Drying to Remove Excess Water
Rubbing curly hair with a towel lifts the cuticle, leading to frizz. Removing excess moisture at this stage means that no matter how good the styling products are, they will be ineffective.
Using a Brush on Towel-Dried (or Worse - Dry Hair)
This destroys the curl definition and causes friction, leading to the cuticle being lifted. Ideally, your curl specialist will detangle using their fingers or proper tools designed for curly hair while the conditioner is on the hair.
Not Advising You on How Best to Look After Your Hair Between Visits
Any service at a good hair salon should be accompanied by tips and advice on how best to keep your hair healthy at home. This is particularly true for curly hair.

What Type of Curly Hair Do You Have?

Curly hair is split into three different hair types:

Type 2 - Wavy
Type 3 - Curly
Type 4 - Coily

Within these three types, there are further sub-types A, B, and C, classified by shape, texture, and diameter.

Type 2 Curls

You officially have a known curl type. The great news is type 2 curls are pretty easy to manage.

2A - Subtle curls, better described as a "just out of bed" look.
2B - Wavy hair that is not curly nor straight.
2C - More defined waves that start at the root.

Type 3 Curls

This is where we genuinely have to start thinking about proper curl-specific care.

3A - Well-defined, soft to touch curls.
3B - Voluminous, bouncy curls.
3C - Tightly coiled curls that keep their shape when stretched.

Type 4 Curls

Densely packed, zig-zag pattern curls that don't twist around themselves.

4A - Tight corkscrews in an S-shape.
4B - Ultra-tight coils with a z-shape pattern.
4C - Even more fragile curls that are almost impossible to see without pulling them free.

Why Does It Cost So Much More to Book with a Curl Specialist?

A normal cut and blow dry for straight hair takes around one hour, and any good stylist can do it. To get a really good cut and blow dry from a specialist, you are talking about one and a half hours minimum, not to mention the high level of expertise required.

It may seem a bit unfair that you have to pay a bit more, but going back to our previous thoughts around "bad haircuts for curly hair," isn't it worth paying that little extra?

The Curls of Your Dreams: Why Seeing a Curly Hair Specialist in West Hampstead Changes Everything

We believe your curls shouldn't be "managed"—they should be celebrated. Here is why visiting a dedicated curly hair specialist in West Hampstead is the best investment you can make for your hair.