Curls, coils and associated toils.... (lots of love from your curl specialist in West Hampstead)
- The Engine Room at Baykar London
- 6 days ago
- 8 min read
As anyone with curly hair knows, finding a good hairdresser is no mean feat. As someone who knows first hand (suffers from that affliction?) I can fully appreciate how soul destroying it can be to walk out of yet another salon with a really bad haircut.
If you have curls, coils, or waves, you know that your hair doesn't play by the same rules as straight hair. You’ve likely experienced the "triangle hair" cut, the accidental shelf, or the stylist who tries to comb your curls out while dry (the horror!).
Interestingly, it was my curls that led me to Baykar and the subsequent opening of Baykar London back in 2014. Long story, but needless to say when I found him I was never letting him go - the hair/Baykar relationship had begun!
I suspect if I said that "bad hair days" were frequent, that would resonate with many of you - can you honestly say that you haven't had to battle the frizz on many an occasion?
So, firstly, lets look at the facts
of frizz (sorry if this send you off to sleep....)
Why do Curls Frizz?
Curly hair frizzes after washing because of how hair interacts with water, cuticles and drying, there is actually science here – it is not just a random thing!
Curly Hair Structure
Curly Hair has bends and twists meaning:
Natural oils don’t travel down the hair shaft easily making it moisture hungry
After washing, curls are extra sensitive to anything that disrupts moisture balance
Water lifts the cuticle (& it doesn’t always lay back down)
What happens when Curly Hair gets wet?
The cuticle opens so water can get in
If the cuticle doesn’t reseal smoothly it can stay raised equaling disaster
Common reasons the cuticle stays lifted:
Hot water
Harsh shampoos
Skipping conditioner
Rough towel drying
Curls need balanced moisture and structure (protein)
Moisture Imbalance = frizz (too little or too much)
This may come as as surprise to many but:
Not enough moisture leads to:
Hair drying out as the water evaporates
Curls expanding looking for moisture in the air which leads to frizz
Too much moisture (over-hydration) leads to:
Hair swelling too much
Curl pattern losing structure
All of which can lead to a fluffy, undefined frizz!!
Friction when wet
Frizz happens when:
Hair is rubbed too harshly with a towel
Hair is brushed while dry or half-dry
Hands consistently touch the hair while drying
Each of these things breaks the natural curl pattern which causes frizz
Products are not sealing the cuticle
If you only use:
Creams or leave-ins (moisture) but no hold product, then:
Water escapes unevenly
Curls lose definition
Frizz appears as hair dries
This is why gel or foam = frizz control, not stiffness.
Humidity pulls moisture back into the hair
After washing:
Hair is clean and porous
Humidity enters raised cuticles
Hair expands, hello halo of frizz
This is especially common if:
Hair is damaged
Hair isn’t sealed with a hold product
Brushing curls breaks the natural curl pattern
A brush pulls curl groups apart, separating them into individual strands resulting in curls losing their spiral shape, becoming frizzy, and looking undefined.
Brushing moves strands against each other and raises the cuticle (the outer layer) which leads to rough texture and frizz.
Wet vs dry brushing matters
Brushing dry curls breaks curl clumps instantly.
Brushing wet curls without product stretches curls and can break strands.
Tip -detangle with fingers or a wide-tooth comb in the shower with conditioner.
Drying method matters more than most people think
Frizz increases when:
Hair air-dries without hold
Hair is blow-dried without a diffuser
Hair is flipped around while drying
Best practice:
Apply products on soaking wet hair
Scrunch to form curl clumps
Diffuse on low heat / low airflow or air-dry without touching
OK, we have addressed all things factual about curly hair, why it frizzes and hopefully how to address it, so the next question has to be be WHY IS IT SO HARD TO GET A GOOD HAIRCUT?
Unfortunately, many stylists/salons simply don't understand the structure of curly hair or how it (mis)behaves.
5 Common Mistakes Hair Salons Make
Cutting Curly hair as if it were straight
9 times out of 10 a stylist will cut curly hair as if it were straight. BIG MISTAKE!!
Curls shrink when they are dry so using the same technique as used to achieve a nice even line on straight hair just leads to uneven lengths, "interesting" shaping and frighteningly surprising volume (think Side Show Bob from the Simpsons)
A curl specialist will ALWAYS cut dry OR with curl shrinkage in mind
Over-washing or using the wrong products at the backwash
Many salons wash hair aggressively, using the first shampoo that comes to hand (yes, even standard moisturising shamposs are designed with straight hair in mind), before cutting or styling, stripping the natural oils which curly hair needs leading to the cuticle opening too much which dries it out and causes frizz
Towel Drying to remove excess water
If you read the previous section you will know that rubbing curly hair with a towel only results in the cuticle being lifted which leads to frizz not to mention by removing excess moisture at this stage means that no matter how good the styling products are they will be pretty ineffective as they should always be applied to soaking wet hair to seal the curl pattern
Using a brush on towel dried (or worse - dry hair)
This destroys the curl definition, breaks the hair and causes friction leading to the cuticle being lifted. Ideally your curl specialist will do most of the heavy lifting at the sink by detangling using their fingers or proper tools designed for curly hair whilst the conditioner is on the hair.
Not advising you on how best to look after your hair between visits
Cardinal Sin.... Any service at a good hair salon should be accompanied by tips and advice on how best to keep your hair in good health at home. This is particularly true for curly hair. Of course you know this from the section above (I see you hurriedly scrolling back up) but it is SO important that you use products specially formulated for curly hair or even the best cut in the world won't stop the frizz..... Please do take on board what your curl specialist is telling you - they are not simply pushing you to make a purchase, they genuinely want you to have great hair!
What type of curly hair do you have?
Personally I never really ever thought about what "type" of curls I had prior to opening a hair salon and it may be that you aren't really worried about going into so much detail, however, as this article is meant to be informative, I shall explain.
Curly hair is split into 3 different hair types:
Type 2 - Wavy Type 3 - Curly Type 4 - Coily
Within these 3 types, there are a further 3 sub-types A, B and C - these are classified by shape, texture and diameter.
Type 2 Curls
....and so it begins. You officially have a known curl type. The great news is type 2 curls are pretty easy to manage and although you should heed the advice given previously in this article, you won't face quite as many challenges as someone with Type 3 or Type 4 curls
2A - this is a subtle curl, maybe better described as a "just out of bed" look or as being having a bit of a kink You probably wouldn't even describe your own type 2A as curly and mainly find you can blow dry it straight pretty easily.
Tip - Type 2A hair is usually pretty fine in texture and prefers lighter styling products
2B - (I promised myself I wouldn't quote Shakespeare are this point... if you know you know - if you don't, its not worth losing sleep over but you could look up famous quotes from Hamlet) - anyway back to the matter in hand - usually described as being wavy, the hair is not curly nor is it straight. You find it easy to create "beach waves" without having to use hot styling tools.
Tip - Type 2B is prone to frizz but this is easily controlled by using a lightweight serum
2C - this type of hair has more defined waves that start at the root (you will have more body and volume). You can manage it relatively easily but need the use of hot tools to straighten it and it is prone to frizz.
Tip - use a curl revitalising product or mid-weight serum to tame any frizz.
Type 3 Curls
This is where we genuinely have to start thinking about proper curl specific care. Your hair will take on a more defined ringlet look which will range from loose to big and bouncy. This type of hair tends to be prone to dryness and frizz.
3A - Your hair will be well-defined, soft to touch and about 4-5cm in diameter. You can straighten it but oh what a task that is....
Tip: use a curl reviving product in between washes to keep your style.
3B - think Hollywood glamour (don't scoff, you know how to deal with the frizz now) voluminous, bouncy and well defined, around 2-3cm in diameter. Slight downside - your curls will be vulnerable to breakage, dryness and frizz if not taken care of
Tip - use a serum or protective hair oil to keep the hair hydrated and defined.
3C - more tightly coiled than previous curl types, keep their shape when stretched. You have enviable volume and texture that has a serious impact when you walk into a room!
Tip - ALL the care and most importantly, a REALLY GOOD deep curl conditioner to keep your coils happy
Type 4 Curls
Densely packed, zig-zag pattern that doesn't twist around itself and has show stopping volume.
4A - your hair will be made up of tight corkscrews in an S-Shape. Will feel coarse to the touch and is prone to dryness which can result in breakage and loss of shape if not properly and consistently moisturised.
Tip - always use shampoo, conditioner specifically formulated for curls. It is a not a bad idea to incorporate a curl mask once a week where possible, but we recommend at least every two weeks. Styling products and hair oils formulated for curls will help define your coils.
4B - ultra-tight coils which have almost a z-shape pattern is known for it's shrinkage when dry, often looking 70% shorter than it actually is. 4B hair is delicate, fine-to-coarse in texture, and prone to dryness and breakage, requiring careful detangling and hydration
Tip - like 4A hair, you should always use products specially formulated for curly hair and should pay particular attention to keeping the hair hydrated
4C - similar in shape and texture to Type 4B curls, these curls are generally even more fragile. The pattern can be so tight that it is almost impossible to see individual strands without physically pulling them free.
Tip - again, proper care is so important with Type 4C hair. Don't over-wash and use a gentle shampoo specially formulated for curls and coils
Why Does It Cost So Much More To Book With a Curl Specialist?
A normal cut and blow dry for straight hair takes around 1 hour, and any good stylist can do it. To get a really good cut and blow dry from a SPECIALIST, you are talking about 1 and a half hours minimum, not to mention there is a high level of expertise required.
It may seem a bit unfair that you have to pay a bit more, but going back to our previous thoughts around "bad haircuts for curly hair" isn't it worth paying that little extra?
The Curls of Your Dreams: Why Seeing a Curly Hair Specialist in West Hampstead Changes Everything
We believe your curls shouldn't be "managed"—they should be celebrated. Here is why visiting a dedicated curly hair specialist in West Hampstead is the best investment you can make for your hair.
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